My Madeira Tasting: I Had No Idea It Could Taste This Good!

I've never cared much for Port wines, as I dislike the brandy used to fortify the wine. So it was with less than my usual enthusiasm that I accepted an invitation from The Tasting Panel Magazine and famed wine advisor Anthony Dias Blue to attend a "Madeira Master Class" event in June 2010.

But one thing I've found in my journeys through the worlds of wine is that if you think you don't care for a particular category of wine, just attend a tasting that gives you a chance to consider a wide range of that type of wine, and you'll find you're wrong about dismissing that entire category. So I went to the event, hoping to discover that I was wrong.

I was wrong! I may not like Port, but these Madeiras are absolutely spectacularly delicious!

Held at the Taj Campton Place Hotel in San Francisco, the 'class' consisted of a (very nice) five-course light lunch, each course accompanied by a particular style of Madeira wine. Blue provided a slideshow about the island of Madeira in the Atlantic Ocean West of Portugal, with a history that turned out to be more interesting and more strange than I had expected. Madeira is not just another wine, and this was not just another repetitive lecture on grapes and terroir and oak barrels and superior production methods (with the "not like those other guys" subtext). No, this was something of an eye-opener to me, and the wines were too.

Made exclusively on the tiny mid-Atlantic island, Madeiras are created from one of four specific grape varietals, none of which I had ever heard of.

A Sea-Voyage History
Some may be familiar with the story of Madeira's rise to prominence: Ships took kegs of Madeira to England's empire in India in the 1700s, and were surprised to find that, after a difficult and lengthy voyage, the wines, purchased in bulk because they were cheap, had improved in quality quite dramatically. This was doubly a surprise because the conditions on the ships were so bad one would have expected the wines to be much the worse for wear, rather than improved: The holds of the ships were very hot and humid as they passed around the Cape of Good Hope in Africa, and the wines were sloshed around as the ships heaved and pitched.

However, the wines were so improved by these voyages that importers took to buying from the island and sending the casks to India and then back to England before bottling, just to take advantage of the beneficial abuse. These were known as Vinho da Roda, or Round-Trip Wines.

Madeira thus mistreated became quite popular among the upper classes in England and in the USA -- many of the US Founders were quite fond of it: The Declaration of Independence was toasted by George Washington with Madeira. Thomas Jefferson, a wine connoisseur, considered it his favorite. In later years, Winston Churchill was a noted devotee, enjoying during a visit to the island a glass from a cask of Madeira left over from Napoleon's exile.

Long before Churchill, however, the Madeira vintners got the bright idea of recreating the conditions of the sea voyage right there on the island. In a process called "estufagem," They put the wine in steel vats and heat them with steam running through copper pipes placed inside the vats. The wine is left to cook for three months or more, then left to rest for three months before being dosed with alcohol (to stop fermentation) and bottled.

Some of the wine is selected to be further aged, in the "canteiro" method: It is placed in wooden casks and stored in attics above the wineries for at least two years -- and since Madeira Island suffers from intolerably hot summers, the attics become broilingly hot -- as much as 110 degrees Fahrenheit! The combination of oxidative aging and evaporation makes the wine more concentrated, intense, and complex.

For some baffling reason, months or years in such apparently abusive conditions tune the Madeira wine to a delightfully delicious elixir. And an "indestructible" one, as one of the winemakers pointed out -- an opened bottle of Madeira stays unchanged in your cabinet for weeks while you sip a bit each day, which is nice for those of us who don't consume large quantities of alcohol.

Types and Styles
Madeiras come in a considerable variety of flavors, sweetness levels from dry to sweet, intensity, colors from pale to nearly black, years of aging, and quality levels -- far too many to analyze here and confusing to contemplate in any event. The main differentiation that might be useful when ordering Madeira are these four types: Sercial, or dry, which is lighter colored; Verdelho, or medium dry, which is more golden; Boal, or medium rich, which is fullbodied and fruity; and Malvasia, or rich, which is dark, the most fullbodied, and very rich and aromatic. All of these wines shine as aperitifs, can also accompany desserts and fruits and cheeses, but have enough acid balance to accompany meals too.

Tasting and Pairing
Though to me, Madeira seems the ultimate example of a cocktail wine -- that is, one that can and should be enjoyed on its own, supported by food -- today's tasting was a sit-down meal with a specific serving for each Madeira. It worked spectacularly well, though I couldn't help being distracted from the delicious food by the intense flavors of the wine.

So let's go over the wines. Since these are all Madeiras, though slightly different vintages and even different source grapes, they have more in common than not, of course: All are intense, varying degrees of slightly sweet, with excellent acid to balance the sweetness, and as rich as it's possible for a wine to be.

First course was veal sweetbread with almonds and paprika, and onion soubise (?), paired with a Barbeito Historic Series Verdelho Savannah Special Reserve. The wine was rich, light, lightly sweet, with orange overtones, and a nice acid balance with this food. Someone called the wine "versatile" because its acid allows it to stand up to anything -- for example, it actually went well with the bread-and-balsalmic-vinegar on the side, too.

List price is $45 -- we asked for prices as the wines were introduced but mostly they kept forgetting to tell us and we kept forgetting to ask.

(One thing I love about these high-end tastings is the exotically named foods, most of which I have never tasted before and some of which I've never heard of.)

Next, an artisan foie gras torchon with dried Bing cherry chutney, French mache, and toasted brioche, paired with an Henrique & Henrique Bual, 15 years old; it was lightly sweet and balanced, and rich.

A Broadbent Madeira Malmsey, 10 years old, was paired well with assorted cheeses, all very intense and salty: Danish blue, a Roquefort, and a Derbyshire Stilton. Winemaker Michael Broadbent (himself!) introduced this wine, saying his mom calls it "a deathbed raiser," which is amusing if obscure. It's a little sweeter than the previous wines. It helped wash down the extreme saltiness of the cheeses. List price is also $45.

Blandy's Madeira Malmsey 10-year-old was next, with dessert: Valrhona chocolate cremeux, and Meyer lemon vanilla ice cream. Yum to both. This one was the sweetest, since it was being paired with ice cream. It's concentrated, more so than the other Malmsey, with a dried-fruit/toffee/spice taste and nose. This one was really spectacular.

But not the most spectacular, as it turned out!

88 Years and Counting...
After the lunch, the public event began, which consisted of half a dozen Madeira houses, each with a table to show off their particular beverage. Vendors were Vinhos Barbeito, Blandy's, Henriques & Henriques, Justin's, and Pereira d'Oliveira. Since I had already tasted four top wines, I figured I'd skip the public tasting, lest I failed to navigate my way home (these wines are all 19% or so alcohol). But as I cruised by the tables, just to take a look, I overheard someone talk about the very old Madeiras one table was showing. I paused and asked the merchant, Manny Berk, if I could have a taste. He poured me a bit of their 1922 -- I think it was the D'Oliverias Reserva Boal. You can get it I believe at The Rare Wine Company of Sonoma, at $350 a bottle.

But what a bargain! Nine decades had compressed this wine down to its quintessence of flavor -- each sip was miraculous. It was what I call a thinking man's wine -- you take a sip, and then you have to stand there and think about it for a while, because the taste is so stunning.

I also took just a sip of their 1968, which is a mere $150 a bottle, and while it wasn't as overwhelmingly wonderful as the 1922, it was miles ahead of the 10 and 15-year-old Madeiras we were tasting at lunch!

When you think about it, this is an underappreciated wine. Could you get a 1922 Bordeaux that's at the peak of its perfection for a mere $350? I think not. You can't even get a 1968 red still wine of any kind that tastes as wonderful as this for $150.

I am converted. I may need to ankle up to The Rare Wine Company of Sonoma one of these days and see what my budget can permit. I have become, unexpectedly, a fan of Madeira.

I write like Nabakov?? Really?

According to this amusing Web site, I Write Like, at http://www.iwl.me/ , my SavvyTaste Blog posts remind of Vladimir Nabakov!

How I wish that could be true!

Mac McCarthy

I write like
Vladimir Nabokov

I Write Like by Mémoires, Mac journal software. Analyze your writing!

Luna Vineyards Napa Valley Pinot Grigio 2008 ($18) - Fun in the Sun

By Mac McCarthy

Luna sent me their latest release for a taste.

I reviewed three of Luna's Napa-sourced wines recently, including 2007 Pinot Grigio, a 2007 Sangiovese, and a 2006 Merlot, and found three good beverage wines perfect for light meals.

The newly released 2008 Luna Vineyards Napa Valley Pinot Grigio ($18) is aromatic and grapefruity, the way PG should be. The taste is light and tangy. With a light dinner, it's pleasantly palate-clearing, a good beverage wine. And on a too-warm June evening, it was mild and refreshing.

And after spending the night in the fridge, it grew a bit richer, balancing the acidity better, and complemented my lunch deliciously.

Nice job.

Luna Vineyards, an artisanal winery on the Silverado Trail in Napa, was founded by Mike Moone and George Vare in 1995, pioneering in producing Italian varietals in the Napa area, and has recently added Cabs and Merlots to their lineup, focussing on organically grown grapes. President & CEO MaryAnn Tsai and winemaker Jim McMahon run the winery using natural fermentation with native yeasts, extended maceration, and minimal intervention.

Luna Vineyards, 2921 Silverado Trail, Napa, California 94558;
707-255-5862  http://www.lunavineyards.com/

Down Country Roads

By John Engstrom
Last weekend I visited a couple of wineries that are a bit off the main wine country highways. Coincidentally, both wineries locales were chosen because of the soil similarity to a region of France

The first was Tablas Creek Winery in the northwestern reaches of Paso Robles. Opened at the dawn of this century by the owners of the renowned Chateau Beaucastel of Châteauneuf du Pape, Tablas Creek grows grape varieties native to the Rhone Valley. Whites are Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc. Reds are Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, and Counoise.

Instead of the usual one long wine tasting bar, the tasting area is actually several small tasting bars that are opened and closed as the number of tasters waxes and wanes. Gustavo was pouring for me and a foursome from Southern California as results from the England vs. U.S. World Cup match were relayed about the facility.

The tasting started with the 2008 Côtes de Tablas Blanc. With Viognier and Roussanne making up 42 and 26 percent of the blend respectively, I anticipated a flowery aroma, and I was not disappointed. Honeysuckle and apricots on the nose were followed by white peaches and Bartlett pears on the palate. A medium body and crisp finish make this both a great summer sipper as well as a great wine to go with sautéed scallops or a salad that included shaved fennel and avocado. **** (on a scale of 5) / $25

Next on the agenda was their flagship white, the 2008 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. The blend of 65% Roussanne and 30% Grenache Blanc (the remainder is Picpoul Blanc) is a fuller bodied white, and as I was sipping it I thought “the rest of the world is wasting their time with over-oaked, flabby Chardonnay, when this is what they should be drinking”. This wine is aromatic, yet not perfume-y; fruity, but dry; well-structured, but not oak driven; and possesses superb balance and a lingering finish. In short, an ideal full bodied white wine. ***** / $40

The third white was a 2008 Roussanne (100%). I generally love Roussanne, and this one was very good, but it doesn’t have the balance or finesse of the Esprit Blanc. Still, it was a delicious example of the variety with aromas of peaches and orange blossoms and flavors of white peach and apricot. **** / $27

The 2009 Rose was a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Counoise (46/39/15), that was pleasantly dry. This wine is more serious and food oriented than many Rhone style dry roses, probably due to the biggest component being the Mourvèdre. Mourvèdre tends to have smoky and meaty aromas as a red wine, and this rose was not overtly fruity in either aroma or flavor as a result. *** / $27

The reds started out with the 2008 Cotes de Tablas. Like its “blanc” equivalent, this is Tablas Creek’s “little brother” Rhone-style blend to their Esprit de Beaucastel flagship blend. In this case, the main component is Grenache (42%), with Syrah, Counoise and Mourvèdre playing the supporting roles. The resultant wine has mixed berry and plum fruit component in the nose, mouth and finish that is very appealing, but not necessarily intriguing, analogous to the difference between a beautiful girl and an attractive woman. Still, a well made wine. *** / $25

Wine Spectator awarded the 2006 Esprit de Beaucastel 93 points and named it one of the Top 100 wines of 2009. Baking spices and cherry aromas are followed by figs, plum and tobacco notes in the mouth, and a gravelly – leathery finish. The blend is 44% Mourvèdre, 29% Grenache Noir and 21% Syrah, with a little Counoise making up the difference. This is a really fine wine, to be sure. **** / $50

However, it was exceeded by the 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel in every way. The ’07 showed more fruit, more power, and yet, more balance, and the structure to withstand longer aging. Compared to the ’06, the cherry aromas are riper, the mouth feel a little fuller, and the finish a little richer and more memorable. The differences are all in the vintage because the percentages in the blend are virtually identical. ****+ / $50

The 2007 Grenache had the unenviable task of following that act. A blend of 90% Grenache Noir and 10% Syrah, it showed cherry and plum up front that morphed into a cherry cola flavor at the end. It has a nice vibrancy that would make it a wonderful wine with a number of foods. Anybody for grilled duck sausage? ***+ / $35

The 2007 Syrah is the “yin” to the Grenache’s “yang” being a blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache Noir. More plumy and earthy than the Grenache, it has more panache, but less pizzazz. It would be wonderful with a mushroom risotto. Better yet, grab a bottle of this, a bottle of Grenache and the best sausage and mushroom pizza you can find. *** / $35

Just as Tablas Creek was situated where the founders felt the soils were very similar to the soils of the Rhone valley, Chalone Vineyards was founded by people that thought the soils reminded them of Burgundy. Chalone is at the foot of the western slope of the Pinnacles National monument. Unlike Tablas Creek, there are no other wineries along the road to stop off at along the way. You go to Chalone to go to Chalone, or on your way back from a hike in the Pinnacles. There was no other tasters when we arrived, and only two pairs of hikers came in while we were there.

We started off with the 2006 Estate Chenin Blanc, from head pruned vines adjacent to the former winery building, planted in 1919. If you are used to the soft, easy-drinking, slightly sweet Chenin Blancs of Clarksburg, you are in for a shock. This is a contemplative, serious Chenin Blanc, completely dry, with good acidity, and a minerality that underlines the pear aromas, pear and green apple palate, and especially the lingering finish. Only fine vielles vignes Vouvray comes close to the way this Chenin Blanc tastes. ****+ / $26

The second wine was a 2006 Estate Pinot Blanc. Pears and melon aromas were followed by the same in the mouth. The crisp acidity and persistent mineral quality gave this wine a solid structure from which to hang its luscious fruit. This would be a great wine to buy by the case for a big party. Your wine snob friends would appreciate it as much as the “you mean there’s a red Zinfandel, too?” crowd. ***+ / $26

This was followed by the 2007 Estate Chardonnay. Here is a Chardonnay that is completely dry (no added back unfermented juice), that actually has some acidity, is not so over-oaked that you feel like your sucking on a two-by-four, that isn’t so buttery, that you start wondering where the popcorn is. Here is a Chardonnay that actually has a fruit component. Here is a Chardonnay that will make you actually drink Chardonnay, and enjoy it. The aromas are of Granny Smith apples and a mere hint of vanilla. The flavors add a touch of mango to the apple pie. The finish is long and slightly flinty. Real Chardonnay. ***+ / $26

What can I say about the 2007 Estate Heritage Chardonnay? That it is among the best Chardonnays I’ve ever tasted? Yes, that’s true. That the best Montrachet producers wish they could make a wine like this? That’s probably true, too. This wine uses the mineral backbone that it gets from the limestone soils of Chalone, and balances the perfect amount of green apple, vanilla, mango and baking bread flavors and aromas to create a truly memorable wine, with a finish that seems to go on for days. ***** / $35

Between the great whites and the reds to follow, there was a 2009 Estate Rose. Made in saignee style from Grenache, it was a pleasant, but not memorable wine. Perhaps it suffered by comparison to the wines before and after. ** / $16

The red wines started with their 2006 Estate Pinot Noir. The smell of cherries and red currants fill your nose, but it’s black cherry with hints of leather and tobacco that fill your mouth. Very well balanced, the wine finishes with a stone fruit and gravel touch. ***+ / $37

This was followed by the 2007 Estate Heritage Pinot Noir. Like the Estate Pinot Noir, the superb balance is clearly evident, taking the same basic cherry and red currant aromas and black cherry, leather and tobacco flavors and adding just the right amount of extra richness in aroma and mouth-feel, yet maintaining a solid framework of tannins and acidity and lean cherry fruit. ****+ / $45

Tasting notes for the 2007 Estate Grenache indicate aromas of fresh strawberries, cherries and rhubarb. I didn’t get the cherries; it was more raspberry to me. That was echoed in the mouth with a slightly spicy note. If I didn’t know better, I might have guessed some Sangiovese or Zinfandel in the blend. ***+ / $30

The 2006 Estate Syrah presented with an earthy, slightly herbal, black plum and blueberry aroma. The earthiness and black plum were echoed upon tasting. The Chalone terroir again providing a solid structure. *** / $30

Lastly, the 2006 Estate Condor Blend is so named because five dollars from every purchase goes to California condor preservation. It is a 69/31 blend of Syrah and Grenache. Alas, it doesn’t show the character of either. It’s a well made but muddled wine. Buy the Grenache, and donate the five bucks directly to the Ventana Wildlife Society. **+ / $40

When I started to write this blog piece, I was going to comment that these two, out of the way wineries were definitely worth seeking out. The wines are fabulous, and the country roads to get to them make a lovely detour from the more traveled highways. However, the “powers that be” at Diageo, have decided to close the Chalone tasting room effective June 26. Another great wine experience lost, and more is the pity.

How I rate wines:
***** = Five Stars = Outstanding wines showing excellent balance, style and distinctive character. These are worth seeking out and purchasing as much as you can afford.

****+ = Four Stars plus = Half-way between Four and Five Stars.

**** = Four Stars = Excellent wines with enough character, finesse and balance to distinguish from the rest. Buy a few bottles, and you can thank me later.

***+ = Three Stars plus = Half-way between Three and Four stars

*** = Three Stars = Very Good wines, but lacking that certain something that makes them special. Buy a bottle or two or three.

**+ = Two Stars plus = Half-way between Two and Three stars

** = Two Stars = Good wine, but nothing exciting. Use it to round out the case for a discount.

*+ = One Star plus = Half-way between One star and Two stars.

* = One Star = Mediocre wines that are adequate to drink, but only if nothing else is available.

## = no stars = Seriously flawed wine.

Three Wines from the New Foppiano

By Mac McCarthy

Lucky me: I received the other day three wines from Foppiano Vineyards in Healdsburg (CA), a winery dating back to 1896 that has recently refresh itself, including new labels, under the direction of winemaker Natalie West and vineyard manager Paul Foppiano (all this I learned from the accompanying materials).

The three wines were a Sauvignon Blanc, a Rose, and a Pinot Noir. Rather than tasting them alone, I brought them to the San Francisco East Bay-area wine group, The Pompous Twits, to broaden my impressions. Julie Mrasek was hosting the June tasting event and was kind enough to allow me to have the Foppianos as starter wines.

My personal bottom line on these wines: I liked them all – eventually. The Sauvignon Blanc was flavorful, the Rose was rich and tasty, and the Pinot, after it opened up a bit, was dandy. The opinions of my Twit colleagues varied quite a bit—as they always do, a reminder of how differently each individual tastes a complex item like wine.

The Foppiano vineyards lie south of Healdsburg in Sonoma Country, in the Russian River Valley appellation. In each case, the grapes were harvested at night while they were cool, then held for a few days at cool temperatures before being processed, to preserve the acids.

2009 Foppiano Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($18) 

The Sauv Blanc is 14.0% alcohol, dry though it seemed sweet due to the fruit flavors, fermented in steel tanks. 860 cases were produced of this vintage.

I loved the nose on this wine: a little lemon grass in stone fruit. The flavor was richer than the steelier Sauv Blancs one commonly tastes. Twit John Engstrom said it was well made, though not to his personal style; Tom Tilly said it was to his style, however. But they and others referred to it as "insubstantial," and opined that it is not a "serious" wine, though it is a fun wine with any of the varied foods we had that night. The two thought it would be much liked by the "You mean Zin comes in red too?" crowd, as they put it.

Mark Cruciani, however, said it was exactly what he looks for in a Sauv Blanc – crisp, with a little zest, but subtle and not overwhelming. It seemed to him like there was a slight bit of malolactic fermentation (there isn't; it just has that richness). He thought it would make a good everyday wine.

Ten of the group liked it; only one said "Maybe."

2009 Foppiano Estate Rose ($15) 

The rose is a blend of roughly half Pinot Noir and half Petite Sirah, produced in the Saignee style, where the juice is allowed to bleed off rather than being crushed. Alcohol is 14.2%; developed in neutral French oak for six months. 220 cases were produced.

This wine, too, had a nice nose – so many wines these days have no nose at all, have you noticed? I found it lightly flavorful, with lots of fruit, and a longish finish.

Several of our members called it "a great BBQ wine" because of its minerality and slight sweetness. John pointed out that it shows a slight tannic bite in the finish (that's probably due to the Petite Sirah.)

Lisa Gros found "strawberry, like a strawberry twizzler stick" in the flavor. She and others agreed it was an approachable wine; several felt that it was, again, a simple wine but not one that sophisticated rose fans would find as interesting – "a starter wine," one person called.

Me, I liked it a lot. I think those who weren't as impressed are those who prefer the drier French style of rose. There is such incredible variety in the flavors and styles of rose that you never find agreement as to preference. I thought this rose was flavorful and satisfying and priced right.

2008 Foppiano Estate Pinot Noir ($25) 

This wine was pressed to French oak barrels and underwent malolactic fermentation, then aged in barrel 14 months. Alcohol level is 14.9%; 800 cases produced.

There was an odd note to the nose of this wine at first: Lisa referred to it as "licorice." I didn't like that, but it blew off quickly. Someone thought this wine would go well with, say, a flank steak with heavy sauce.

I was hesitant about this wine, until I had some of the pate that Mia Cruciani brought – the Pinot really liked this pate! In addition, after a while, as the wine got some air in it, the taste improved quite a bit. I wasn't impressed at first; later, I decided I liked it a lot.

This is a lighter style Pinot, though not completely into the Burgundy camp. It seems like a good beverage wine, one to serve with food (rather than a 'cocktail' or sipping wine). Again, the group found it pleasant, a good choice for a BBQ or an afternoon on the deck, but without enough complexity to please experienced Pinot drinkers.

After our Foppiano pre-wines, we moved on to other wines Julie provided for the evening, including a J Vineyards Cuvee 20 NV Brut from the Russian River; a 1998 E. Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape that was tasty; a Williams Selyem 2001 Pinot that surprised me by not being the knockout I always hear it's supposed to be; a tasty Michel-Schlumberger 04 Cab; a flavorful 2007 Bella Vineyards Big River Ranch Grenache, a delicious Novy Family 06 Carlisle Vineyards Zin, a satisfying 05 Carol Shelton Rue Vineyard Karma Zin, and a 2001 Martinelli Moonshine Ranch Pinot Noir that was in some ways the biggest, jammiest wine of the evening.

Taste & Talk 2008 Passaggio Chardonnay

By Mac McCarthy

The main thing about Cyndy's Passagio 08 Chard is that it is very *flavorful* - you keep wanting to go back and take another sip! Not A Boring Chard!

And amazingly, it's only $13! This is a $30 or $40 CHard, folks -- a chard for people who don't think they like Chardonnay.

Problem: Only available online - at http://networkedblogs.com/4BPyn -- so shipping doubles the price. BUT GOOD NEWS! Until June 20, she's knocking half off shipping for Father's Day. Do your dad a favor and get some of this - it will knock his "I don't like whites" socks off! Trust me!

Mac the Red Drinker

RAP 6th Annual Pink Out! SF's Major Rose Tasting

By Mac McCarthy

The Rosé support group, RAP -- Rosé Avengers and Producers – presented their 6th Annual "Pink Out!" trade and public tasting in mid-May, at the charming Butterfly Restaurant at San Francisco's Pier 33.

I was happy to be able to attend my sixth Pink Out! tasting in a row – this Rosé tasting is the most enjoyable winetasting events of my year, and there's a good reason for it.

Namely, because you can't sell Rosés in America.

The Crimes of White Zin

 It's amazing the trail of destruction caused by the introduction by Beringer of the otherwise harmless, easy-to-drink and inexpensive sweet rosé they made from Zinfandel, and sold by the tankerful starting in the 1970s. Let us count the crimes:

*White Zinfandel made people think they didn't like Zinfandel.

*White Zinfandel made people think they didn't like Rosé.

*White Zinfandel made people think they didn't like sweet, or even off-dry, wines.

We are still recovering from these devastating blows to the national palate.

Starting in the late 1980s, a group of now-famous winemakers began a campaign to make us understand that the Zinfandel grape is capable of producing a great red wine. In addition to experimenting with the grape and its growing and fermentation methods, and funding a research project at the University of California at Davis, they formed ZAP –Zinfandel Appreciators and Producers, an organization to promote Zinfandel to the masses. For a dozen years, the ZAP Festival at Fort Mason in San Francisco has poured hundreds of delicious Zinfandels of every style, converting growing numbers of new wine drinkers to the joy of Zin.

Here Come The Rosé Avengers! 

 Stealing a really good idea, Rosé-loving vintners a few years ago formed RAP – the Rosé Avengers and Producers society -- to browbeat us into appreciating the wonderful tastes of Rosé wines. Going for a puckish, disarming humor, they named their annual public tasting "Pink Out!," with a mascot originally consisting of a superhero-style cartoon of a black man in pink superhero tights (now they use a PC trio).

The first Pink Out!, at the Butterfly restaurant along the San Francisco Embarcadero, sold out its 200 tickets overnight. The event grew in later years, unfortunately changing venues to a selection of nightclubs where the disco lighting completely destroyed one's ability to see the colors of the wines. Happily, Pink Out! returned to the Butterfly last year and repeated again this year. This does limit the maximum number of attendees, but at least you can appreciate one of the overlooked joys of Rosé, which is seeing the amazing variety of pink colors – wines that are just rosey, darker roses, Barbie Doll pink, coral, a tinge of orange in the pink, and pale to near colorlessness. 

This joy is then followed by the other distinctive aspect of Rosé in the United States, which is the astonishing variety of tastes from wine to wine. There are two reasons for this.

First, you can make Rosé wine from any red-skinned grape. So you have more variety in Rosé than in any other style of wine: from Rosés made from the traditional Pinot Noir, to Cabernet Sauvignon, to Merlot, to Sangiovese, to Grenache, Cab Franc, Syrah, Barbera – and back to Zinfandel, though in this case a dry, well-balanced Zin Rosé. And to further stir things up, many Rosés have white wines such as Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and even Chardonnay, to add breadth, richness, aromatics, and other flavors.

Second, and just as important. since Rosé isn't popular here, there isn't a standard commercial style of Rosé that sells well in the supermarket. So there's no pressure to produce a generic, conforming wine. That means the winemakers can make their Rosé in the style they, personally like best.

Heck, they can't sell the stuff, so they make it to please themselves. One speaks of wine expressing the terroir; in the USA, Rosés are made to express the winemaker!

As a result, every Rosé you taste is different – often wonderful, but almost always different.

How fun is that?

Totally.

Well, except for the down side: Since they can't sell the stuff, they don't make much. Most of the wines at this event we made in batches of a few hundred cases. Most sales are done in the tasting room; however, thanks in part to Pink Out, an increasing number of restaurants are offering fine Rosés on their wine list, and wine stewards suggest them to clientele they perceive as a bit more adventurous.

Which brings me to My Brillian Suggestion for pushing Rosés on a puzzled American public: Pitch Rosé as the secret wine style nobody but the really, really in-crowd knows about! Only the totally cool people appreciate it. Not much rosé is made because, you see, the uncool people don't 'get' it. But really, Rosé is The Next Big Thing. You know how Pinot Noir came out of nowhere? Remember how Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand suddenly became the white to drink? And now unoaked Chardonnay is the way to show you're not a wine amateur? Well, let me just say one little word – Rosé!  Shhh! Don't let everybody hear! No, not White Zin, fercrissakes! That's the fake Rosé they push on the college kids who don't know any better! Real Rosé is totally different – not sweet at all. In fact, you have to be a bit sophisticated to even appreciate it. And a bit adventurous.

Are You Adventurous?

What Mac Liked at the Pink Out!

Enough background. Here are the wines I tasted – about 30 out of the nearly 50 wines offered. (I didn't spit, but I did take small sips and also took my  time – and didn't drive home.)

Julien Fayard showed his Azur Wines' (Napa), 2009 Azur Rosé, a delicious beverage wine, pale/almost white Syrah rose with some Sauv. Blanc added, $26.

Blackbird Vineyards 2009 Arriviste Rosé – a very likeable Bordeaux blend of a Rosé, made from Napa Cab, Merlot, and Cab Franc. Tasty. $24 

Fleur de California 2009 Rosé, a pleasant Pinot-based "brunch wine" at $12. And a $13 Cab Rosé that was also good. 

Gloria Ferrer brought a 2006 Brut Rosé bubbly that tasted of strawberries and cherries; very nice. $42. 

Elyssia by Friexenet, NV Pinot Noir Brut Rosé, at $18; had a nice finish.

Tapena, imported from Spain by Friexenet, made from Garnacha (Grenache) plus a Spanish grape called Monastrell "and a splash of Shiraz" for a rosé with a nice finish. I didn't get a price, sorry.

Segura Viudas, is a Cava brut Rosé sparkling wine from Spanish grapes not specified; not bad and only $10, if you can imagine.

Aria is another Segura Viudas, in this case a Cava sparkling Pinot Noir, that was really excellent and priced at $14.

Hendry Winery offered a 2009 Rosé made of 70% Zin, 20% Cab, and, for some reason, 5% Primitivo. At $13 I gave this a "Yes!" in my tasting notes. 

I'M Wines, a Napa label from Isabel Mondavi (get it?), offered a 2009 Isabel Mondavi Deep Rosé that split the difference between being a food wine and a richer cocktail wine. $15. 

Intersection Wine Company of St. Helena, makes one wine and one wine only: Lorenza Rosé, a dry rosé made with Rhone grapes. Is that nuts? A labor of love, evidently, from fashion model and Napa native Michele Lorenza Oullett and marketer Melinda Kearney. Their 2009 Lorenza Rosé was a very nice beverage wine, blended from Mourvedre, Carignane, Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, and selling for $20.

The Loire Valley winegrower's association again appeared, which was nice. Last year they showed a cross-section of French Rosés, from dry to sweet – a wonderful education in the range of possibilities offered by fine Rosé. This year they focused on Rosé d'Anjou, which are made primarily from Cab Franc grapes.  I tried each. They were of course similar—and all, being French, were what I call 'beverage' wines,' but there were distinct differences in density, crispness, and sweetness. The Barton & Gustier 2008 Rosé d'Anjou, $10, was slightly sweet and tasty. The Remey Pannier, also $10, was crisp and light. The Sauvion 2008 ($11) was similar to the Remy, and almost as good. The Domaine de la Fouquette 2009 was softer and dryer and seemed lighter; $12.

Old World Winery, of Fulton, CA, makes its 2007 White Night Rosé, from the Trowbridge Vineyard, from a sort of field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. Despite the white in there, the wine was very dark. The winemaker and proprietor, Darek Trowbridge, used natural yeasts, and only made 200 cases, which he sells for $14 a bottle, another bargain for a delicious Rosé. I gave it an extra star.

Pedroncelli Winery has been pushing its Dry Rosé of Zinfandel in the teeth of the reputation of White Zin, and with some success, apparently; I see it in stores, which isn't that common for good rosés. And even at $10, this Dry Creek wine is a good Rosé. I'm glad I have an extra bottle at my house.

Quivira Vineyards & Winery (Dry Creek, CA) sells out its 500 cases every year of Grenache Rosé, made from sun-bleached (!) Dry Creek Grenache plus some Mourvedre and Viognier. It sells for $15 when you can find it. It was excellent. The winemaker, as indicated, picks the outer grapes that have been bleached by the sun. Interesting!

Robert Oatley Vineyards  of Mudgee, Australia, showed a 2009 Rosé of Sangiovese made from vines grown at 1200 feet on quartz soil, I was told, developing deep roots. It was $15 and very tasty.

Rock Wall Wine Company  (Alameda, CA), represented by founder Shauna Rosenblum (that's her smiling with my friend John Engstrom), brought her 2009 Sparkling Grenache Rosé, which lists for $25. They also showed their Mixto, which adds Chardonnay, and which I liked too.

Six Sigma Ranch  (L:ake County, CA) poured a 2007 Rosé, $18, which I thought had a tiny bit of a bitter finish. Their 2009 Tempranillo and Cab blend, made in the saignee way, that at $14 I liked better. They also had a Marian's Rosé 09, whole-cluster Syrah, $24, that had very nice fruit—naturally, they only made 17 cases of this tasty item.

Ty Caton Vineyards  (Sonoma) offered their 2009 Estate Syrah Rosé; I liked it, and as I sipped it while talking to various people, it grew on me more and more as it opened up. $18.

Urban Legend Cellars' (Oakland CA) 2009 Rosato di Barbera, at $16, was absolutely excellent. Only a year old, this winery's founders, Marilee and Steve Schaeffer,  know Barbera – I tasted their first-release Barbera red at the Urban Wineries Day in Jack London Square, Oakland, loast year and it was so amazingly good I was walking around like a circus barker, telling passersby they had to try it. This rosé is every bit as tasty.

Urbano Cellars  (Berkeley CA), another East Bay urban winery, has been around a few years longer than Urban Legend and makes a wide range of interestingly different wines. However, I didn't care for their 2007 Vin Rosé when I tasted it last year. At RAP this year, they poured the 2008, and it is much improved – it's actually really good. Better still, the 2009 preview is excellent, with good finish. And like so many of these fine wines tasted this day, a bargain at $15.

(I'd like to congratulate the folks at Creative Furnace, the Santa Rosa marketing company that again put on a fine tasting, again at the Butterfly, a great venue with delicious food. Nice job, folks.)

"Diageo Shutters Rosenblum Winery, Moves Production to Napa"

 (Wine Spectator): http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/42703

Not *quite* as alarming as it first reads, but pretty alarming nonetheless: Diageo, which bought Rosenblum a couple of years ago and has been clearing out its warehouses of slower-selling highly rated bottles at bargain prices, is cutting costs by consolidating winemaking at a Napa facility, along with other wineries it owns such as Beaulieu and Chalon.

The Rosenblum tasting room will remain in Alameda, in the former Naval Air Station hanger on the island near Oakland, CA; however, a tasting room Rosenblum had opened two years ago in Healsbrug will be shuttered.

Equally interesting, the article says Diageo is discontinuing some of Rosenblum's most highly rated wines, for example, the Monte Rosso Zinfandel -- which explains why they are having a 25% byh-case discount sale on the 2007 bottling for Rosenblum Club members. Their Monte Rosso, retailing at $45, is one of their premiere Zins and one of my very favorites. St Peter's Church, which I find less interesting but which is much liked by others, is also being discontinued.

Rosenblum's quarterly Open House takes place Saturday, May 22, at the Alameda facility; might be a good opportunity to pick up some discounts. The event charges $25 for Club members buying tickets online beforehand.

The article quotes founder Kent Rosenblum as being disappointed. No doubt. I've heard him, and some close to him, talk of his frustration with what he calls the "bean coutners" at Diageo. Of course, Diageo is suffering financially like every other business in the current economy; not to say their cost-cutting choices are the same ones Kent would make if he had control.

But there is good news amid the gloom: The Monte Rosso and St. Peter's Church grapes Diageo is walking away from are now available to Kent's daughter, Shauna Rosenblum, for her nearby Alameda winery, Rock Wall; so all is not lost. Shauna does a top-notch job at Rock Wall; if you have a chance to check out her work, it's worth the trip to Alameda.

Pompous Twits tasting: "Mac's New Wineries of the East Bay"

Tasting report by Mac McCarthy

It was a tough month for an event, even with such a promising theme – a mere 11 of our Pompous Twits were able to appear for this month's tasting event, held at the Palomares Cafe in Castro Valley, CA. 

We actually had too many wines – 17, plus a bonus starter wine from Dave Hulet, a Molyneaux that was a great start. With Dave's help, I trimmed back the wine list a bit – cutting out an Occasio Pinot Grigio and a Longevity Syrah Rose, then discovered that I had left a Longevity Merlot at home, to my disappointment. But this brought us down to a more manageable 13 wines, plus Dave Hulet's Rodrigue Molyneaux Cabernet Sauvignon from Livermore.

Here are my tasting notes, with my scores on a 10-point scale, and reference information on the wineries below. If you see errors in this report, be sure to let me know, but otherwise indulge me --  as it appears I was drinking that evening....

Bottom line: If you missed this tasting, you are sorry you did – these were mostly wonderful wines, and mostly unknown vintners to the assembled Twits, or at least untasted examples from the wineries they did know. So it achieved my goal of showing off some of the best of the new wineries from Livermore, Alameda, and Oakland. These wineries are all less than ten years old, and in some cases less than a year old.

The following tasting notes benefitted from input from John Engstrom. Tanks, John!

Flights

1.  White

Satyrs' Pond "White Wine," 2008, Pinot Grigio and Viognier blend, 12.8%, $16 (Livermore)

             Jinny Horner pronounced this round white wine "delicious" and I think the rest of us agreed. John said it had a great nose and was refreshing. I give it a 6.5.

2. Merlot, Mourvedre

Longevity       Mourvedre, 2008 Livermore, 2% Petite, 1% Syrah; 14.7%, 25 cases, $19 (Livermore)

            Interesting nose. Interesting, hard to describe flavor too. I give it a 6.0. John thought it had more fruit, was less meaty than other Mouvedres. He gave it a 6.5.

R&B                Metronome Merlot, 2007 Towne Ranch, Napa Valley; 14.9%, $18 (Rock Wall, Alameda)

            It was ok. 5.5. John felt it lacked distinguishing characteristics and gave it a 5.0.

3. Misc. Reds

Rock Wall      Rock Star Rouge, Red Blend, 2007, CA 14.6%, 42% Syrah, 37% Temperanillo, 21% Cinsault, $14  (Alameda)

            This blend was acceptable but didn't knock my socks off. I gave it a 5.5. John, on the other hand, said it had racy aromas, it';s the bottle he took home (the Rock Wall Zin being gone), and he gave it a 7.0!

Longevity       Barbera, 2006, Lodi, 13.6%, $18 (Livermore)

            Rich and round for a Barbera. You know how hard it is to find a consistently good Italian wine. 6.0. John: Surprisingly non-acidic for a Barbera, round and full now, though aging may be problematic: 6.5.

Cuda Ridge  Petit Verdot, 2008 Livermore Valley, 15.2%, $32 (Livermore)

            Wow! Bright blackberry nose, bright black-fruit taste, an eye-opener. Mac's favorite of the evening. 7.5. John wasn't as impressed: Lacked the backbone of a really good PV, but very fruit forward; he gave it a 6.5.

4. Cab & Cab Blends

Nottingham   Ralph's Red Blend, 2007, 60% Cab, 40% Merlot; 14.15%, $29 (Livermore)

Cuda Ridge  Cabernet, 2007, Livermore Valley, 12.5%, $30 (Livermore)

Irish Monkey Cabernet, 2006, 'El Dorado Complete, 13.2%, $35 (Oakland)

            These three Cabs were absolutely terrific – everything you want from a Cab. I give Ralph's blend a 6.5; it was just fine. (John: "Zzzzzz! 5.0") The Cuda Ridge was excellent, definitely a 7.0 and worth every penny. (John: Best of the Cabs, with a nice balance – 7.0.) The Irish Monkey, with an extra year under its belt, showed richer, sweeter tastes that IMHO give it an 8.0 and the edge for the evening. John disagreed completely: "A little 'thin,' tasted more like a Merlot to me; 6.0."

Ferrell             Cabernet, 2006, Sean's Vineyard, 14.6%. (Los Altos Hills)

            This is a homemade wine from the Los Altos Hills, and was a perfectly acceptable Cab that had the misfortune to go up against three top-notch examples of the Cab-making art – I give it a 5.5. John: "More interesting than Ralph's Red, but unpolished: 5.0."

5. Bigger Red

JRE                Zinfandel, 2007, St Helena, $12  (Rock Wall, Alameda)

Rock Wall      Zinfandel, 2007 Sonoma Co., a heritage clone; 15.6%, $25 (Alameda)

      Well, you might think you could get a bigger red in a Zin, but after those knockout Cabs, these Zins could do no better than a respectable pair of 6.0 scores – fine Zinfandels with no flaws. John agreed with me on the JRE: Fine but not exceptional – 6.0. But the Rock Wall Zin: "Best wine of the night, impactful. 8.0!" Zowie!

6. Dessert Red

Adams Point California Dessert Wine with Natural Chocolate Flavor, NV, 19%, port-style, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Syrah, with chocolate flavor. $16. (Oakland)

            Not bad – not damned bad at all. The chocolate aromas wafted up from the glass like a dark chocolate bar, and the taste was a nice finish to a terrific evening. 6.0. John: "I detest wines wiht added chocolate, but this smelled better than most: 3.5." Ouch!

Background on the Wineries

Since these are new and little-known wineries, some background may be in order.

Longevity Wines

35 Rickenbacker Circle, Livermore 94550

http://www.longevitywines.com  888-325-9463 or TheLongFamily@longevitywines.com
Tasting room open Sat & Sun noon-5pm. Or call for appointment. 

Longevity is about three years old, a hobby-turned-passion for Phil and Debra Long (Long – Long-evity!). As with so many small Livermore wineries, their tasting room, open most weekends, is small, uncrowded, and friendly – if you show any knowledge and appreciation of wines, you will enjoy Phil and Debra's wonderful examples of the art and discussions of their plans and dreams. I believe their production is under 1,000 cases total, but they have ambitions to grow a lot in the coming few years. Their small-lot wines mostly sell out every year; joining the wine club is a good idea.

Other wines from Longevity:

            Chenin Blanc – One of the few Chenin Blanc makers in California, Longevity's is terrific.

            06 Lodi Barbera, 58 cases, $18

            07 California Cab, Contra Costa, 55 cases, $22

            Contra Costa Syrah, sold out of course.

            07 Lodi Viognier 56 cases $18

Cuda Ridge 

5385 East Ave., Unit B, Livermore 94550   510-304-0914 

http://www.CudaRidgeWines.com

Larry and Marge Dino named their winery after Larry's favorite car, the Barracuda! His wines are mainly Bordeaux-style blends. Like Longevity, the Cuda Ridge tasting room is open most weekends, is small and amongst the barrels, and Larry loves to talk about the wines, the philosophy, and their plans to grow their small production much larger. They've just introduced a wine club, which is worth joining.

Cuda Ridge's wines include:

            Livermore Sauvignon Blanc, $18             Livermore Merlot, $22

            Livermore Cab Franc, $26                         Livermore Cab Sauv., $30

            Livermore "Renegade": Zin, $29              Livermore Petit Verdot, $32

Rodrigue Molyneaux

3053 Marina Avenue, Livermore, CA

Tasting Room open weekends 12:30pm - 5:00pm

http://rmwinery.com/

Wines:

Amianco white

Sangiovese

Barbera

Cabernet Sauvignon

Primitivo

Primavera Rosa (Cab)

Port (Cab)

Cabiovese (Cab-Sangiovese)

Cabera (Cab Barbera)

The Rock Wall Wine Coop, Alameda

2301 Monarch Street, Suite 300, Alameda, CA 94501

The Tasting Room is open Thursday-Sunday from noon to 5pm

Rock Wall hosts seven small wineries in all, including Carica, Blacksmith, and Virago.

Rock Wall Wines

Rock Wall's own wines, produced by Kent Rosenblum's 26-year-old "cellar rat" daughter, Shauna Rosenblum, and other members of the Rosenblum circle. They make good Zins, of course, given Kent's access to the finest vineyards, but expand also into other wines, including a rare Tannat (that sells out quickly, or we would have included it in this tasting). They like to brand their blends "Rock Star."

             Zinfandel, Sonoma County          Zinfandel, Jesse's Vineyard

             Zinfandel, Reserve, Sonoma       Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands

             Chardonnay, Russian River         Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

             Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

             Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley      Petite Sirah, Mendocino County

             Tannat, Solano County                 Rock Star Blanc (Sauv Blanc, Chard) California

             Rock Star Rouge (red blend), California

Rock Wall also hosts R&B Cellars and JRE, below.

R&B Cellars

Red wines with names with a jazz music theme. About ten years old, apparently started as another partnership between Kent Rosenblum and a winemaking colleague making Cabs. When I first heard of them, their excellent Cabs were selling for under $20; now they have reserve Cabs selling for $50, which was over our price point for this tasting. R&B brands its wines with musical themes, mostly jazz, such as their Swingsville Zin and Metronome Merlot.

JRE    (John Robert Eppler)

Very small lots: Fume Blanc, Zin, Cab, red blends, and a late-harvest Zin. We tried his Zin at this tasting.

Irish Monkey           

1017 22nd Ave – Oakland

http://www.irishmonkey.net/     (510) 915-5463

Loretta Lynch accused her Irish husband, Bob, of having a wine monkey on his back. He had been producing award-winning beers but was determined to shift gears into wine. So they named their small urban winery Irish Monkey. Or so the story goes.

Like many new, small wineries, the Lynches like to distinguish themselves by making offbeat wines, or traditional wines with their own special twist. They produce a number of wines from Portugese grapes, some Italian-grape wines, a pair of Malbec blends, and a sort of variation on port in the form of a Touriga-based wine dosed with brandy and sugar.

    Wines of Irish Monkey:

Torrontes                   Sauvignon Blanc

Chardonnay             Viognier

Sangiovese               Pinot Noir

SyrBec                       (A Syrah-Malbec blend)

MerBec                      (A Merlot-Malbec blend)

Merlot                         Syrah

Primitivo                    Cabernet Franc

Cab Sauvignon        Meritage

Touriga National      Sweet Captain's Table (Touriga, Brandy, Sugar)

Oakland/Berkeley

Adams Point

http://www.adamspointwinery.com/

Bill Galarneau of Adams Point makes wines from tropical fruit (and port-style dessert wines from grapes). "We specialize in Mango Wine, Mango/Papaya Wine, and Persimmon Wine. Our dessert wines include: Mango Dessert Wine, Persimmon Dessert Wine, Red and White After-Dinner Wine, and Chocolate Dessert Wine." "The wines pair well with Thai, Hawaiian, and Caribbean food, and food from the regions where tropical fruit are grown."

I've had the Mango and the Persimmon; and they are not as bad as you would naturally expect. Fortunately, the Chocolate Dessert Wine is made from actual grapes, though the specific varietal is not mentioned on the site. The facility is in West Berkeley, the exact address not mentioned on the site either, unfortunately.  The easiest way to try his wines is by attending the annual (twice-annual?) East Bay Urban Wine Trail event – details can be found at http://eastbayvintners.com/ .

Los Altos Hills

Ferrell Wines

Patrick Ferrell is a publishing entrepreneur who started the successful GamePro gaming magazine, and founded the annual E3 convention for the console- and PC-gaming industry. Currently he is starting up an activities-based social network called Activnet.com.

One of his hobbies is home winemaking, producing robust Cabs each of the past few years from grapes grown on his property in the Los Altos Hills on the San Francisco Peninsula. The wines are not commercially available, but I thought I would bring an example to our tasting, for the fun of it.

Followup Pinot Noir Tasting...

As a followup to our investigation of the Gallo French Pinot that might not actually be a Pinot, I gathered some friends to check the wine and compare it to other inexpensive Pinots.


One taster's comment as soon as he tried the Gallo Red Bicyclette: "Hmm. Lacks varietal character." I swear I didn't prompt him!

We then tried some other cheap Pinots for comparison, a $9 Castle Rock that tasted much better than that; a $9 Australian Little Penguin with a lot of flavor, though more aggressive in style; a $20 Vichon that was dead, dead, dead, though it was only an '06 - surprised the heck out of us. And one of the group brought a Chandon priced around $35 that brought the entire evening to a delightful conclusion!

Conclusions: 1. The Red Bicyclette was marginally drinkable but you couldn't tell what grape(s) it was made from; 2. there are other cheap PNs out there that have more flavor and more Pinot qualities, though none are showstoppers; 3. $9 Castle Rock is as enjoyable as everybody says it was, and easily the best tasting value; 4. It's possible to pay $20 and wish you had a $6 Pinot, and 5. Chandon shows it's possible to pay $35 and get that heartstopping Pinot experience!